Wednesday, September 2, 2015

Quebec City, Quebec 8/30 - 9/3 / 2015


Quebec City is the capital of Quebec and is the second largest city in the province of Quebec (behind Montreal).  We began our adventure at Vieux Que'bec  (old Quebec).  Old Quebec is the only North American fortified city (completely walled in) north of Mexico.  The city, founded in 1608 by Champlain is said to be the most European city in North America. Walking around the charming cobblestone streets is magical. There is history in every direction that one looks and the walkways are dotted with small sidewalk cafes serving incredible food.  As we wandered the streets with the French language filling the air, we truly felt like we had been whisked away to a distant land.  

We began our first day on the double deck tour bus which provided us with a good overview of not only Old Quebec City, but also of the immediate surrounding area.  On the bus we learned the history of the area and also how to tell the English buildings from the French buildings: The brick buildings were built by the English and the stone buildings by the French.  After our 90 minute bus tour we were off to explore.  

We began at the Parliament Building where we picked up tickets for the 1:30 tour.  From there we wandered the surrounding area trying to decide which of the wonderful cafes we would eat at.  We decided upon Le Grand Cafe'.  There we shared butter and wine infused escargot with crumbled blue cheese (Escargot au Bleu d'Auvergne) and both of us chose the Penne au Carnard Confit Porto & Abricot  (Pasta with Roasted Duck, port red wine, a drop of cream apricots and Parmesan).  Words do not describe how tasty the meal was.  The quality and taste of the meal so reminded us of eating in New Orleans, when we lived near there.

After lunch we headed to the Parliament Building for our tour.  The Parliament building is beautiful inside and out.  Parliament Building The inside is filled with carved walnut and elm woods and several stained glass windows.  The National Assembly Chamber we visited first.  This room has a beautiful painting on the ceiling, with the corners of this painting representing the four seasons.  At the back of the room is a very impressive clock.  The large painting that sits behind the Speaker is found in all the Quebec History books.  We were told that this picture depicts the great  language debate that occurred in  1867, when after 3 continuous days of debate, the British North American Act 1867 was enacted.  This is now know as the Constitution Act 1867.  Basically it states that English or French may be used in the debates. While that is the case, there are no translation devices provided, therefore in practicality today everyone participates in the debates in French.  There are presently 3 organized parties, and 4  independent members, one independent that is described as really independent.  The other 3 independents are actually connected to another party but do not have the minimum seats required to be recognized as a party in the National Assembly.

Next we went across the hall to the Senate Chamber, which was once  filled with un-elected Senate officials, that were appointed for life by the Queen.  The Senate system in Quebec was abolished in 1968.  It was an expensive venture to abolish the local senate in Quebec, as the senators were guaranteed their salaries until they died.  The Senate Chamber is now used for committee meetings where they write the bills that later go across the hall into the National Assembly Chamber room where they are debated and voted upon.  The day that we visited not only were they holding a press conference, but we also sat in the Senate Chamber and listened in, although in French, on one of these committee meetings. No pictures of this room, however, as no pictures were allowed while they were in session. 

Of note, Canada still has a Senate system at the National Level .  The senators there are apportioned by a formula that was written into the Constitution in 1868, not determined by population of the individual province.  The senators are still essentially appointed by the Prime Minister.  Presently, the Prime Minister seems to be pushing, however, to abolish the National Senate System as well.

Next we were off to visit some of the beautiful churches that lie within the city walls.  The first church we visited was Cathedral of the Holy Trinity.   This church, first opened in 1804, was the first Anglican church built outside of the British Isles.   King George III paid for the construction of the church.

The next church that we visited was Cathedral Basilica Notre-Dame de Quebec.  The church was the first parish church built in North America and has been located on the site since 1647.  It was given cathedral status in 1674.  The cathedral has been destroyed by fire twice, with the last construction in 1923.  The Cathedral is beautiful.  Enjoy the pictures.

There is so much beauty and history.  We took many pictures and have noted the buildings where we could easily identify.

Also on our bus tour we went down Cartier Avenue where there are 34 back-lit lampshades that are spectacular at night.  We took a quick picture from the bus in the daytime, but check out this link to see them at night when they were meant to be viewed.  lamp shades

On our bus tour we also went to an area that we were told was transformed from a slum to a high tech area.  In the windows, we were told the 'post it wars' were begun that are supposed to have spread around the world.  A couple of pictures are provided.  Basically, pictures are created in one's window with post it notes.

On our second day we first visited the lower old city of Quebec.  Such beauty.  We began at the farmer's market.  Wow the produce was incredible and we bought onions, strawberries, fresh corn, fresh bread, some maple products (including maple butter...yum), and a fresh garlic sting that is supposed to last close to a year.  The garlic string was oh so precious as we conversed with the grower. She spoke little English, but oh so friendly and wanting to converse.  Hard to explain, but fun for all three of us.

Next we toured the shops in lower Quebec and then went up the funicular to upper Old Quebec again. The funicular amazingly enough, was first built in 1879.  We searched out a restaurant that was supposed to serve home style Canadian French.  We ate at Aux Anciens Candiens.  Oh....we cannot eat this way every day.  Like we so wanted a nap afterwards.  We first had escargot and wild caribou and bison roulettes, then we had, for two, what is called in English Grandpa's treat (for two).    It consisted of Quebec Meat Pie, Meatball ragout, another meat pie made with wild meats, pig's knuckle, salt pork grilldes, baked beans and Maple Pie for desert.

From there, still so wanting a nap, we headed out to Chute- Montmorency.  This waterfall is 272 feet tall, which is 99 feet higher than Niagara Falls.  One of the unique things about this water fall is we viewed it overhead from a suspension bridge.  A very different view for sure.  All and all, we had another great day in Quebec City.

On our last day near Quebec City we headed up to the First Nation town of Wendake, which is a 3 square mile reserve for the Wendake nation people.  We visited both the Site Traditionnel Huron and also the Musee Huron-Wendat.

We began at the Site Traditionnel Huron.  Here we learned about the culture of the Huron,(as named by the white explorers) or as they prefer to be called the Wyandot people. We began our tour in the sweating tent.  This is where the Wyandot went to find help from the Shaman for purification.  The tent was filled with various masks, yet out of respect, pictures of the masks are not allowed.  The Wyandot believe that if you take a picture of the mask that the bad spirit that lives in the mask will live in your photograph. The Wyandot created masks in a tree trunk for various aliments or bad spirits.  If after carving the mask, the tree lived, they would then carve the rest of the mask, leaving the tree behind. Rituals would then be done using the masks, but rather than a central figure doing the ritual, the Shaman would state what was needed and it was the responsibility of the family members to do what was needed.  From the Sweating tent we moved on to a canoe building area.  Canoes were built by first digging a hole in the ground to create the form.  Birch bark was then laid within.  Cedar ribs (arched by hot steam) were laid on top of the birch bark and spruce root, after being soaked for a couple of hours was used to sew the two together.  They then used tree sap mixed with bear fat to water proof the vessel. While in this area we also saw a sled that was used in hunting to bring back the kill.  Animals were not used to pull this sled, but rather a Wyandot with a band around his forehead would pull the game filled sled.  We were told that because of this, women most wanted to choose a man as a mate that had the largest neck.

Our next stop was into more of a tee pee structure.  This structure was used in approx. the 500 year period when the Wyandot moved often and were mainly gatherers.  We were shown how one side the bottom would be a bit raised at the floor level on the windward side to enable the wind to blow the smoke (fire in the middle) up and out of the top.  The woman were responsible for building, carrying and sewing this structure together.  Next, when they began to plant and harvest we learned that they would stay in one place for 10-20 years.  Eventually the land would become infertile and the hunting would get worse and it was time to move on.

When they became planters they made long houses.  Long houses over 300 feet have been found, however, most were closer to 100 feet.  Each longhouse would be inhabited by a clan.  A clan always had a name, such as the wolf clan.  The clan was determined by the mother's line.  The eldest woman in the clan would be in charge of the clan house.  She would appoint the chief, but if he did not meet her expectations she had the power to remove him.  When a woman wanted to marry, her 'fiancee' would come stay with the family in the long house.  He would bring gifts for the girl such as a beaver skin (worn fur to the skin) or a shell necklace.  The gift was always something personal for her.  He would live with the clan for a trial period.  If he did not work out, he would leave and she would keep the gifts.  If he did work out, he would live with the clan in the clan longhouse where they would have and raise their children.  If the long house was not big enough, the long house would be added onto.  Within the long house most things were communal.  Individuals only owned their personal items such as fir clothes or shell jewelry.  Everything else was owned by the clan and the clan mother determined and controlled the order in which the food was consumed by the entire clan.  This assured that the salted meat lasted into the winter months, among other things.  Women were completely responsible for the growing of crops and picking and preparing.  The men hunted but it was very involved.  Before hunting, there would be a ceremony where one dressed in the skin of what they were going to hunt, and during a dance while wearing this skin, they would would ask the animal for its life.  After the kill, normally only happening by spear or beating, the men would then need to go through a purification ceremony which included smoking the pipe which was done for purification.  It was believed that women were purified monthly during their menses.  During this time women left the long house where they remained in another structure during this purification process.  In the long house there was one fire for each two families.  The long house would be as large as needed for the clan.  Assignments were given to keep the fires going as they believed that the fire symbolized life.  If the fire extinguished they believed that their house had died and they would need to build a new one.  Our guide looked white and we were told that in approx. the late 1600's that 300 of the clan moved north.  Shortly after this move 75 of their women were killed in a raid.  In order to keep the clan going they married out to the French.  Thus, today, many members of the clans are white looking, blond and blue eyed.

Next we went to the  Musee Huron-Wendat.  Pictures were not allowed in most places here, but the museum housed many artifacts from the tribe dating as far back as the early 1600's.  Our guide was an older woman from the wolf clan.  She was especially interesting as she was related to many of the descendants tied to the some of the artifacts in the museum. While she shared many of the same stories that we had heard at the earlier site, she gave a different twist to these stories as well as gave us a detailed story of how the maiden woman fell out of the sky to begin life on the back of a turtle, which was the island (or they thought it was an island) that they eventually lived on. She also gave a further explanation of their circle belief.  Everyone is on the circle as are the animals.  That places everyone not only at the beginning point but also at the end point.  Each person is equally important as the others on the circle.

We were both fascinated with the two Wyandot locations we visited.  The people from the tribe were so eager to share their story, though they sometimes struggled for a needed English word to explain something, as French is their tribal language.  We have much enjoyed our time in the Quebec City area.  In the morning we are off to Montreal.

Parliament Building 1877
Parliament Building
Parliament Building 1877
Parliament Building 1877
Parliament Building 1877
Parliament Building 1877
Parliament Building 1877
Cathedral of the Holy Trinity
Cathedral of the Holy Trinity
Cathedral of the Holy Trinity
Cathedral of the Holy Trinity
Cathedral Basilica of Notre-Dame de Quebec
1647, last rebuild due to fire 1923
Cathedral Basilica of Notre-Dame de Quebec
1647, last rebuild due to fire 1923
Cathedral Basilica of Notre-Dame de Quebec
1647, last rebuild due to fire 1923
Cathedral Basilica of Notre-Dame de Quebec
1647, last rebuild due to fire 1923
Cathedral Basilica of Notre-Dame de Quebec
1647, last rebuild due to fire 1923
Cathedral Basilica of Notre-Dame de Quebec
1647, last rebuild due to fire 1923
Cathedral Basilica of Notre-Dame de Quebec
1647, last rebuild due to fire 1923
Cathedral Basilica of Notre-Dame de Quebec
1647, last rebuild due to fire 1923
Cathedral Basilica of Notre-Dame de Quebec
1647, last rebuild due to fire 1923
Cathedral Basilica of Notre-Dame de Quebec
1647, last rebuild due to fire 1923
Minstere des Finances
Vieux Que'bec
Chateau Frontenac 1893
Frontenac
Vieux Que'bec
 Vieux Que'bec
Vieux Que'bec
Vieux Que'bec
This is a painting on the side
of a building
Vieux Que'bec
Vieux Que'bec

Winter Fun
Vieux Que'bec
And  also Winter Concerns
Vieux Que'bec
Vieux Que'bec
Random Flowers
Vieux Que'bec
Random Flowers
Vieux Que'bec
Random Flowers
Vieux Que'bec
Entrance into the walled Vieux Que'bec
Another, random and fun shot in
Vieux Que'bec
The Post It Wars
Quebec City
The Post It Wars
Quebec City
Train Station
Vieux Que'bec
The lamps on Cartier Avenue
Near Vieux Que'bec
Random fun in Vieux Que'bec
Random fun in Vieux Que'bec
There is even fun in watering the horses
Vieux Que'bec
Wow the produce was incredible!
Farmer's market in Vieux Que'bec
Riding the Funicular
Vieux Que'bec
 Chute-Montmorency
As seen from the overhead Suspension Bridge
Chute-Montmorency
As seen from the overhead Suspension Bridge
Chute-Montmorency
As seen from the overhead Suspension Bridge
Wild Game Sled
Site Traditionnel Huron
Exterior of Long House
Site Traditionnel Huron
Interior of Long House
Site Traditionnel Huron
Used to Grind Corn
Site Traditionnel Huron
Fencing around Long House
Musee Huron-Wendat

Exterior of Long House
Musee Huron-Wendat
Doorway of Long House
Musee Huron-Wendat
Temporary Structure that would be built when out to hunt or fish
It would be left behind intact.
Musee Huron-Wendat

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